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ENCORE! : Multidisciplinary designer Maurizio Galante talks to us about creating timeless pieces to the strict requirements of the haute couture tradition. We also take a look at the Autumn/Winter collections with our fashion critic Jessica Michault. From the casino tables of Chanel to the shocking pink of Schiaparelli, we get the inside track on the designs that will be leaving their mark in the season to come.
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hello and welcome to this odd cut your special edition of encore coming up we take a look at the best of the autumn winter collections presented here in Paris we chat to couturier married CEO galante about the challenges of creating made-to-measure confections and ingratiating himself into this most glamorous of peruvian circles and our fashion critic Jessica me shows with us in the studio to take us through the major trends spotted this year and what the couture houses have come up with to keep the fashion elite glued to their front row seats Mauricio thanks for being our guest today jaja and Jessica of course thanks for being with us my pleasure now it's odd couture week here in Paris the shows have already started it makes for some sumptuous viewing on the television and in the pages of our glossy magazines the big houses have all been represented by Chanel Gucci Jessica can you just run us through what sets would could show apart from the ready-to-wear collections well the biggest difference between a quarter and ready-to-wear is that it's made to measure it's the clothing is fit exactly to the measurements of the woman's body she'll go one two maybe even three times 20 quid with your house to get the exact measurements and the proportions right to her I think another major point to make is that most of the clothing that you get a note which will probably cost the same as a small car the pricing is extreme to say the least East but also what's Kutcher's about it's really a dream fact our designers get to experiment with fabric it to experiment with grand ideas and then you see the kind of trickle down later into ready-to-wear but it is a place of magic and dreams mm-hmm very rarefied atmosphere solutely it's a very prestigious industry now am i right so you've been working in or could chill for a few years now probably very difficult circle to break into how did you do that i started my collection in paris in 92 and i become member of chambre Syndicale vodka too in 2008 yes it's difficult but I ticket some terms of quality of yachts of work it's the de France for this is the perfect yeah it's certainly a technical and accolade for any so uh Phil yeah the servo fare indeed now uh Jessica what about this year's collections what will they really stand out shows for you well one of the biggest pieces of news or the highest anticipated shows was the debut of a new young designer at the iconic house of Oz de Schepper le it was a young designer named Beth Hong Joo young who was given this opportunity to take over the house and what's exceptional about him is that he comes from valentino he cut his teeth on Couture valentino if you know anything about Valentino and the two new designers who are there Maria Grazia truly and Kira pot Opie Cody they are masters at couture and this collection at Schiaparelli was exceptional far and away much better than his predecessor and it was great also to see the duo from Valentino sitting in the front row cheering him on and really helping flourish and this is new adventure and he did a great job right ok now I get the feeling every year every season that the sets and the staging get more elaborate more expensive more atmospheric what would highlights this time around well you can always count on Chanel to come up with some amazing set and they did not disappoint this year this this season it was since Chanel Casino Royale and what what he did this time cry Lagerfeld was he stacked the deck with amazing fantastic celebrities so he had people like Lily Collins Kristen Stewart vanessa paradis and her daughter Lily lily-rose Depp g-dragon lara stone stella tennant i mean it the blues goes on and on and on all these celebrities and then finally Julianne Moore coming out and just like owning the place and it's amazing oats or jewelry comet necklace one-of-a-kind necklace so all of this is going on in the center of the of the stage and then at the same time you have this fashion show going around but all the eyes were on the celebrities in the middle and who is going to win and take home the bank of course the jackpot for Chanel the exactly predictably ritzy but I mean odd couch will all this elaborate staging an expense that goes with the promotion and also the creation of these clothes does come in for a bit of criticism in times of recession it is an important industry here in France though so who better to defend that industry than Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld he gives us his point of view you know fashion is not needed a there mayoral problems in the world who may be more important so this is not a problem but it's an industry and you know fashion has to go with time if person doesn't go with x fashion would be lost actually Richard I wanted to ask you a question when I came and saw your most recent work it was a in a beautiful art gallery so it felt like the staging was very important for you I was wondering if you talked a little bit about why you decided to do it there yes I am I present my collection in Hell in ballet gallery in Paris inkay Voltaire and it's the name it's a conversation conversation between the gallery Helen and myself the gallery is specialized in masterpiece caldera pika so the gas and I choose the gallery because I think for my work it I won't really go away from the play of seasonal game of the fashion because my clothes it's evergreen it's something my client by 10 years ago and use today and fresh it's a totally fresh for this I'm I'm not fashion designer and more designed and fashion designer mmm so creating something that perhaps might be a masterpiece in years to come on in the fashion world now talking about trends I probably won't be shelling out for a nut cut your piece so what can we see that might trickle down to the high street in the months to come well I think you're already ahead of the game because your top is really going in with what the color of the season was and that was this shocking pink which of course is completely linked with as a chef early that's she's the one who came up with in that exact name but we saw that particular color not only on the chef's early catwalk but also at armani at versace and i think also it do you or so it's this very light and vibrant color and when you have colors like that coming to four and you have all the different designers thinking of the same color you think that maybe that means something in the bigger scope of thing in the world maybe we're all feeling much more cheerful much more uplifted much more vibrant hopefully it'll trickle down into fashion and also into our own sensibilities okay well pink certainly does give you a lift yeah and I can vouch for that now I reits you to come back to your collection I believe that you only show would could sure once a year why that choice because I don't believe in seasonal way in terms of metal way and in other ways because the client today is here and tomorrow is and rio de janeiro why we have this idea about the clothes for winter clothes for some and odd Couture of Couture for me it's more experimental way it's more creativity and the clothes it's this it's not commercial but I was really interested because I know your work and and in the past it was known for a much more organic fluidity and this time when I went and saw these pieces there was much more structure much more definition what was your thinking behind that but I present three clothes it's more structure because it's a homage to the to the pass I use the pattern from the 18th century because in before the Industrial Revolution the harms is cut in another way with the gesture hmm but after for commercial way the gesture fall down and we don't have any more gesture it's really right and this is a homage to this way to more a personal more emotional it's true that we saw that I know in portraiture of the time always earth at the arm crooked now we must point out that this show that you recently showed everything in the the collection including the furniture the lighting was designed by yourself because you're a multidisciplinary designer you've worked in architecture even interiors all sorts of things how do you approach these different disciplines do you have a different way of tackling or could show her to when you tackle lighting I think in the same way because today we don't need nothing in terms we have a dress we have a furniture we have a table chair what we need is just emotion and that's it I try to transmit or build something to give a motion do you have a preference is my favorite thing to design no we don't have a preference baby in terms of the child is the same very diplomatic very diplomatic idea now we're going to finish off with a peek at a behind the scenes of one of the most iconic couture houses that's dear this new film is documentary is called Jill and I it follows the new arrival raf simons as he tries to create his first orchid short collection Jessica can you let us know what you thought about dual this year jor was a fabulous collection this year it was really the you know the Garden of Earthly Delights it was a stunning collection where we're seeing raf simons really proposed new ideas and fashion almost pushing fashion into the future without us realizing that that's the direction we wanted to go in and when you get that you know tingling in your spine you know it's an amazing collection and I definitely had a spine-tingling moment or two watching this amazing show basically showing us the future of fashion Wow okay well we'll leave you with a clip of that remember you can get more culture news on our website we're also on Twitter and Facebook I'd like to thank merit Co for being with us vision you and Jessica as always pleasure there's more news coming up on France on yet after this new face a legacy which is so gigantic and sublime I find a legacy of the earth for all of challenging rap wasn't the obvious candidate people said oh he's a minimalist because of the history of Dior people are fascinated by what will happen after work Redman there was not wonderous here not one I never give up until the first girls on stage turn back for music