2 On Site in London Making a Bespoke Savile Row Suit with Anderson & Sheppard, Part I

yeah oh hi the show it's calling Hayward for Madison Sheppard very well thank you how are you yeah it's going very well thanks and just went to say yeah you know one of they are to be involved and thank you for selecting us to showcase our suit can I just run through the the details with you so it's gonna be a free piece single British so is a net in a plain navy blue top snake material and I've got the fabric here in front of me so it's it's a Smith fabric which is one of the companies we use a lot yeah passing below so it's gonna you know really sort of a place that sort for for 18 and a half 18 and all 32 32 43 I was afraid I'm looking from the length of the couch but what we're also doing we're going to find out the natural waist relax please so you just have to press and if someone standing right what will happen is their center of gravity it's like a seesaw you can just press it and they start to topple forward naturally so on Matthew we'd probably go around 18 and a half then down to the limb for the coat 42 we go to the back of the knee which on the measurements is 43 for me I'd probably just come a fraction longer sir the cuff on the shirt looks for little shorts if the shirt was a little longer and bring the cuff down just a fraction once again we can have a look at the fitting stage and determine if we need to make any adjustments 25 right right at the end of day our customers could be wearing a suit all day long it needs to obviously look and fits beautifully for the same time we want to be practical we want that practical elegance so he throughout the day wearing a suit for 12 hours you feel like it's a second skin you can't move about in it you can function in it it is comfortable to wear for 12 hours of a business day you're probably looking at about 4 weeks for a fitting and then I'll see you and whilst at the jacket I'll see you in four weeks my colleague mr. Malone will come in and take some trousers now thank you very much sir John all right now how you going to support them cut high in the waist yeah I'm having away so you have an alike 45 45 so a couple of things we'd always do make sure the coffee's flat make sure the edge is not together okay all the cutters and all the tailors up their own she is obviously our cutting she is a quite large quite weighty we know our own shears most lino polishes in the cutting room I'd be able to pick out my shears blindfolded obviously tape measure I think we always have string is not and then the other main very simple really we haven't we're not over reliant on technology this little symbol here just means it's also a jetted pocket you'll find all sorts of customer requests one customer used to have a pocket in the back of his jacket and the reason fart was when he was on a plane equipoise passport and his tickets so it was always easy to get tickets and you didn't have to go fondling that's the beauty of what we're doing with it being bespoke the customer can ask for these requests and we will try and sort them out these little details and these quirks master be really ever customized bespoke this is what the cutters do at this stage this is where the cutter is deciding where to take shape and stuff at the next level he's where the tailor will also then do what he does and he'll start to shape it by manipulating the cloth because what it's all about with the cutters and the tailor's is putting the necessary marks to shape the suppressor and manipulating the cloth it takes like that it's two-dimensional and flat into a three-dimensional object to place over the individual all right what we do to check the balance I'm Hall pitch waist suppression waistline throughout you see the bottom of the coat and this is our little marking and signal for slits at side but this end here are the sleeves so we start to pass it all up what will happen is once I've put these together so you've got the fundamental building blocks of the garment this is where nothing goes to waste so we've got the top collar what we call the top collar I'm obviously marking directions of the grain of the cloth so the tail just to help an ADA tailor again you got to think there's gonna be the flaps there's gonna be jetting 'he's took it

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